A couple of years ago, I visited San Sebastián and was given a peek at El Pabellón, the old fort adjacent to the town plaza. I wanted Richard to see it while he was visiting, this relic from the days of the Spanish occupation of México, when the abundant mineral riches found in the Sierras were mined and refined and sent off in guarded ship convoys to Spain to finance its wars and the Spanish Armada.
According to my sources, including Joe Thompson from Hacienda Jalisco (who told me part of this story when I visited there some time ago), El Pabellón was the first fortress in the area but was additionally a tienda de rayas, or exchange house, where precious metals could be exchanged for reales, the Mexican currency, and vice versa. A three kilometer tunnel led from Hacienda Jalisco outside of town into the fort for the safe transport and storage of the gold and silver refined at the hacienda.
The old fort has become a part of a hotel. I was dismayed to see a sign on the interior door: admittance for guests only. In my usual reluctance to take no for an answer, I chatted up the smiling young man tending the entry, who agreed to take us on a tour. José grew up in Ecuador and quickly confessed his love of Mexico and his enchantment with its history, which he is just now learning. He led us through the lobby, out into the pretty courtyard where the stable arches still stand, and through a door leading to a stone ramp I remembered from my past visit.
What was the ramp for? Possibly for hauling carts full of loot into the secure regions of the building.
Up we climbed to the higher floors, its 250 year old beams spanning the width of the low storage rooms.
From the top window, a view of the church tower, and a photo of our host.
Here, in the old officers' mess, are photos featuring the popular Pancho Villa, who reputedly visited here on his rebellious adventures.
Through that doorway, you see the interior of the gun turret, all of stone with slots in it for gun barrels. This was war, remember. Many of the Mexican revolutionaries enjoyed reclaiming their national treasures from the Spanish to finance their own fight for independence.
And now back down the very steep stairs for a few more photo ops.
We said goodbye to José and thanked him for his personal tour, giving him a propina for his time and goodwill.
Behind the hotel are many old walls and structures remaining from the original installation.
Here's the turret from the outside, all shaggy with the moss of the ages.
One more photo for you as we bid adios to San Sebastián, this one of the cross on the church tower glowing solo in the night sky.
Next week: Cocodrillos and mangroves and birds, oh my!
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