The city of Milazzo on Sicily's northeast coast sits on a long finger of land pointing north into the Mediterranean. It's an ancient city, its history dating back to the 7th century B.C., the location in Homer's Odyssey where Ulysses is shipwrecked and encounters Polyphemus, the one-eyed giant. Although surrounded now by fairly ghastly industrial sprawl, it is surprisingly elegant and charming in its center. It is also a major port city and the departure point of ferries to the Isole Eolie, the Aeolian Islands.
I learned some of this during my second week in Sicily and changed my plans to include a trip to the islands. After two nights in Milazzo, I drove to the port early one morning to find the Siremar ticket office.
I bought my ticket from the cheerful fellow behind the glass. His buddy came outside and nearly walked me and my car all the way to the boat through an odd series of convoluted driveways.
Offshore, one can see the mountainous center of the island of Sicily...
...and the peculiar Where's Waldo smokestacks of Milazzo's industrial zone.
The ferry left the Milazzo harbor and headed out across the Tyrrhenian Sea, which is the part of the Mediterranian between mainland Italy and Sicily. The first stop, the small island called Vulcano, is over three hours on the car ferry from Milazzo. I spent my time up on deck, talking with crew members and a few fellow passengers who were going to one or another of the diverse islands.
Vulcano is the southernmost island of the volcanic archipelago. The older of the islands were formed over a million years ago. The newest are still under construction. On several of the Aeolians, hot springs leak into the sea, warming beaches of powdered pumice. Steam vents from hillsides.
Yet along the edges of all the islands, in kind harbors at the feet of hills and cliffs, human settlements lie--and have lain for millenia.
The sea is generous.
The ferry next stopped in Lipari, the main town on the island of the same name which is the largest of the seven isles.
As we pulled away from Lipari, I had my first glimpse of one of my favorite views in the Aeolians, the island of Stromboli, just coming into view from behind Panarea.
Stromboli is an active volcano that emerges from a sea bed four thousand feet deep. Its cone, three thousand feet above sea level, emits smoke along with occasional lava falls and explosive eruptions, capping the island's perfect symmetry with a perpetual cloud. In this most recent eruptive phase, Stromboli has been in continuous activity for over 2,000 years.
My final stop on this ferry ride was Salina, the island where I would stay for a few days, and where I missed my opportunity to photograph a queen.
I did, however, manage a couple of good wanders, camera in hand. Salina is called the green island because it's...well, green.
After Salina, I would head back to Lipari for a couple of days. I really liked Lipari, so we'll go there next time and I'll show you around.
Have a great week, and thanks for the emails and blog comments!
Always fun to follow your wonderings, doings, adventures! LOVE LOVE LOVED Italy too!
Writing your own story is MORE when you LIVE it, as you are doing Candice!
That SHORT moment at our accommodations in San Pancho, a few:) years ago is still a sweet memory!
Life is but a vapor.
I too hope, as Rena, in your last comment, that I will again run into you someday in San Pancho:)
I am experiencing THANKS today as well! Patty Chalupsky
Posted by: Patty Chalupsky | November 28, 2013 at 02:07 PM
Candice,
I am visiting San Pancho in February and have been exploring the area via internet and discovered your blog. I have read every word, 3 years worth and loved it. My plan is to settle in Mexico in the near future or at least find a home there to live in during the winter. I am from Seattle and am so tired of grey, cold, wet winters. You know that story well. I have rented a place for a month so I hope that I will run into you and be able to thank you in person for all the great reading time I've had. Loved all the stories about building your home, trips to Tonala and surrounds looking for furniture, salvage doors, light fixtures, etc. Love the stories of your art projects with the children of San Pancho. Will definitely be found in Panchito's and the Blue Pig. Hope to meet you while I'm there. Are there any supplies that I can bring to you to say "thanks" for all the fun reading? Rena
Posted by: Rena Jorgenson | November 03, 2013 at 07:24 AM