Last post, I mentioned the former "ghost town" of Mineral de la Luz with promises of more. It's not that there's yet a lot of there there, to paraphrase Gertrude Stein. They have hopes: Endeavour, the Canadian mining company we ran across in the little towns near San Sebastián del Oeste, is operating in the Guanajuato area too.
New homogenous signs label most of the businesses in town, few of which were open.
The few residents we met, most of whom were mothers walking their children home from school, seemed flat out amazed to see us and welcomed us with sweet smiles and conversation. But several of the shop owners were wrapped in fat parkas with Endeavor Mining logos. So something's going on, but what it is wasn't all that evident on that cold January day.
What we found on the way there, and outside of Mineral itself, I found much more compelling.
One gets to Mineral de la Luz by taking a hard left at Guanajuato's Templo de la Valenciana, the big church where I saw the wondrous concert during the Festival Cervantino a few months back. By taking the right fork just before the Valenciana Mine entrance, one ends up on a cobbled road. Shortly before the road turns to dirt and rock, this medieval mirage appears:
I don't know what it is. Believe me, I've Googled. If anyone else knows, tell us, please.
A little further up the road is a shrine to the Child Doctor of the Sick, a version of the Christ child we also encountered in the Parroquia in San Miguel.
Forty minutes or so along the dirt road, one comes to the fancy new avenida into Mineral de la Luz. A bit past that turn is a road into an Endeavour operation where we came across an old hacienda, a long-abandoned part of the original silver mining boom in the area, now likely a part of the Endeavour claim.
And then we spotted, on the other side of the dirt road from these ruins, what appears to be an old family cemetery. It wasn't fenced. Scattered garbage showed that the property has been used for partying over the years. Around the perimeter of what is now a bare lot are the remains of the family tombs, stark in the cold light.
They had been looted. Ragged holes chopped into the sides of the beautiful old monuments gave evidence of the intrusion and disrespect of subsequent generations.
It seemed to me, as we wandered around this now desolate site, that this was once a family garden. The few remaining lovely old trees hinted of a landscaped park. I pictured the big family gathered there for Sunday afternoon picnics and fetes, surrounded by the resting places of their loved ones whose presence Mexican families honor and celebrate.
Nobody home now.
We retreated from the chill of weather and neglect and headed back down the road to Guanajuato.
Another day, another daytrip, another glimpse into the deep heart of Mexico.
the structure APPARENTLY is the remains of the old silver mine's warehouse of sorts.... why it iwas all terraced intrigued me though and i am. not sure i "get" how this was a warehouse... seems a bit elaborate. I will ask the experts some more questions... and report back. GG
Posted by: Gretchen | February 21, 2013 at 07:26 PM
Look what I found on you tube !
"Mina de los elefantes de guanajuato"
Enter this and see what comes up .
I could not get this structure out of my mind .
Looks like I have to go on a road trip now .
The history of Spanish silver is fascinating .
Jackson
Posted by: Jackson | February 07, 2013 at 08:13 PM
Great idea, Jackson! I'll look into it over the next few days.
No, Dee, we didn't talk with anyone about the castle and got nowhere asking about the other ruins. Still a mystery...
And Gretchen, regarding your question about the material the crosses are made of: I believe I was told once it's the inner leaf of a cactus. Very commonly used in those parts to make these crosses, along with marigolds sometimes. I have some more photos from San Miguel I'll publish this week of similar constructions.
Thanks, all.
xo
C
Posted by: Candice | February 06, 2013 at 03:30 PM
If possible could you pin where this magnificent structure is on google earth for all to see exactly where you found it ?
Posted by: Jackson | February 05, 2013 at 08:11 PM
Fascinating! The ruins and cemetery are very thought provoking. Did you have a chance to speak to the locals and ask if they had any verbal history of who built the gothic looking towers and ruins?
Posted by: Dee | February 03, 2013 at 05:36 AM
That structure is amazing - it looks almost like a fortress of some kind.
Posted by: Jeanne | February 02, 2013 at 08:28 AM