Road Trip: Return to San Sebastián del Oeste

What, I ask you, can be better than a spur-of-the-moment road trip to a sweet old mountain mining town? Not much, in my opinion. Last week, Richard and I loaded up the car with warm clothes and headed east into the Sierra Madre range to San Sebastián del Oeste, as I couldn't imagine not showing this hidden treasure to a visiting gold prospector with a good camera eye.

I've written of San Sebastián before in a post filled with photos. One's camera refuses to stay in one's pocket there, especially in morning and early evening light. The whole town is a feast for the eyes.

How can one resist its old walls and doors and flowers that look artificial but aren't?

I'd called ahead for a room at my favorite Hotel del Puente (322-297-2834), an old hacienda with big strange comfortable rooms ranged around a lovely courtyard. It's reasonably priced at 300 pesos a night...which amounts to around USD $25 at the current exchange rate.                                                                                               

We were especially enamored of the giant original keys that open the room doors, keys too big to lose, mostly because they're too heavy to carry around.

I'd also called ahead and left a message for Walter, the proprietor and chef at the wonderful Montebello restaurant. He called me back the following day, confirming a table for two at 6:30. I figured we'd be hungry early after a day of driving and exploring, and we were. A good thing, given Walter's homemade Italian fettucine alfredo and cheese raviolis in fresh tomato sauce, his delicious salad, and his own homebaked bread which is some of the best bread I've ever eaten anywhere. It doesn't even need butter, which is a high compliment coming from me.

We spent the same on a lovely bottle of Italian wine as we spent on the hotel room, a Verdicchio Classico he had chosen in Guadalajara because it came from very near his home in Italy. After the meal, Walter presented us with tasters of his personally concocted liqueurs: limoncello, orange, and our favorite, an herbal quaff with basil, mint, and anise. Yum.

I have only one rule about going to San Sebastián any time of year: be darn sure Montebello is open. You can call 322-297-2883 for reservations. They are usually closed on Wednesdays.

The next morning, we set out again, cameras in hand. 

After breakfast, we had the great luck to get a tour of the old fort, a story in itself which will wait for next week. See you then!

                                      ♢    ♢    ♢

                                                                All photos by R Butler or me

Comments

[Allen]

I was ready to move to San Sebastian the first time I visited! I loved that home with the 3 casitas, and an extra room for a little cappuccino bar. But of course, I also loved Talpa. And I loved...

Thanks for sharing San Sebastian with us again!

[Jeanne]

San Sebastian looks beautiful and the restaurant sounds wonderful!!!

[frannyb]

Montebello is not to be missed. I visited San Sebastian three times before eating there....and now would not even consider a trip without enjoying one (or more!) of their fine meals served in a jewel of a setting by gracious talented people. gracias for the memories....xo

[Travis]

I hate hearing about people eating at Montebello who aren't me.

[Char]

Lovely, send some of that sun up North would you please!

[Gretchen Goodliffe]

Such a beautiful town and some amazing pictures, I would love to steal one to attempt a painting? Can hardly wait to hear about the fort... Mexico is so full of fascinating stories.