A couple of years ago, I visited San Sebastián and was given a peek at El Pabellón, the old fort adjacent to the town plaza. I wanted Richard to see it while he was visiting, this relic from the days of the Spanish occupation of México, when the abundant mineral riches found in the Sierras were mined and refined and sent off in guarded ship convoys to Spain to finance its wars and the Spanish Armada.
According to my sources, including Joe Thompson from Hacienda Jalisco (who told me part of this story when I visited there some time ago), El Pabellón was the first fortress in the area but was additionally a tienda de rayas, or exchange house, where precious metals could be exchanged for reales, the Mexican currency, and vice versa. A three kilometer tunnel led from Hacienda Jalisco outside of town into the fort for the safe transport and storage of the gold and silver refined at the hacienda.
The old fort has become a part of a hotel. I was dismayed to see a sign on the interior door: admittance for guests only. In my usual reluctance to take no for an answer, I chatted up the smiling young man tending the entry, who agreed to take us on a tour. José grew up in Ecuador and quickly confessed his love of Mexico and his enchantment with its history, which he is just now learning. He led us through the lobby, out into the pretty courtyard where the stable arches still stand, and through a door leading to a stone ramp I remembered from my past visit.
What was the ramp for? Possibly for hauling carts full of loot into the secure regions of the building.
Up we climbed to the higher floors, its 250 year old beams spanning the width of the low storage rooms.
From the top window, a view of the church tower, and a photo of our host.
Here, in the old officers' mess, are photos featuring the popular Pancho Villa, who reputedly visited here on his rebellious adventures.
Through that doorway, you see the interior of the gun turret, all of stone with slots in it for gun barrels. This was war, remember. Many of the Mexican revolutionaries enjoyed reclaiming their national treasures from the Spanish to finance their own fight for independence.
And now back down the very steep stairs for a few more photo ops.
We said goodbye to José and thanked him for his personal tour, giving him a propina for his time and goodwill.
Behind the hotel are many old walls and structures remaining from the original installation.
Here's the turret from the outside, all shaggy with the moss of the ages.
One more photo for you as we bid adios to San Sebastián, this one of the cross on the church tower glowing solo in the night sky.
All photos by R Butler or me
Next week: Cocodrillos and mangroves and birds, oh my!
❖ ❖ ❖
Hi Candice, I came across your blog while doing some research- (My maternal grandmother's family was from San Sebastian and surrounding areas) Enjoying your stories and the beautiful photos, I'll be back to read more. Hope all is well- take care.
Posted by: Leticia | May 30, 2012 at 02:07 PM
Wonderful post! And beautiful area.
Those steps would have freaked me out though!
Thanks for sharing!
Posted by: Jeanne | March 24, 2012 at 04:03 PM
Beautiful pics and another great post...thanks.
Posted by: Smokesilver | March 23, 2012 at 07:06 PM
fasinating and beautiful...thanks for the tour. xo
Posted by: Char | March 23, 2012 at 12:35 PM
Thanks, Franny and Gretchen. I know Gretchen has her eye on a few of last week's photos to use for paintings (you go, gurl) and I do like my photo of the old pot on the grounds of the fort. Trouble is, there's so darn much to paint here that my file of photos keeps growing! Poco a poco...
Posted by: Candice | March 23, 2012 at 08:35 AM
You know I always enjoy the photos that accompany your writing. There are several in this batch that are calling to become paintings. In fact a few I was certain were paintings. What a treasure. Gracias, amiga.
Posted by: frannyb | March 23, 2012 at 08:12 AM
SO very very interesting.... what a flowered past this country has, and we know so little! Those buildings are wonderful... always in a search for gold and precious metals... is this not the same story throughout the world, on the Niger to Timbuktu..South America, the Canadian Cariboo, Alaska and they leave the most wondrous legacies behind for people like you to discover and share and bring alive again. THANKS! GG
Posted by: Gretchen Goodliffe | March 23, 2012 at 07:18 AM