I'm sure you've noticed how much easier it can be to erect stereotypes and hide behind them than it is to actually get to know a person or a place. And yet, how often does it happen to you that, once you take the time to get past a preconception or first impression, you are happily surprised at what you discover?
I have received many different comments upon telling people that I had spent half a month in Mexico City.
"Why would you do that?"
"How wonderful! I've always wanted to go there."
"I'd never go there, it's too scary."
"What was it like?"
"Ick. Doesn't it have, like, twenty million people or something?"
It does have around twenty million people in the greater metropolitan area, just a couple of million more than New York City has in its metropolitan area.
But here's the thing: you don't have to meet all of them.
Back in the 1820's and '30's, when Franny Calderón de la Barca was in Mexico with her husband, who was the first Spanish ambassador to independent México, she lived in a neighborhood very near the Zócalo (the huge main plaza), in the area now called the Centro Histórico. She travelled by horseback and carriage from one neighborhood (or colonia) to the next, visiting friends. They stayed for a while "in the country", in a colonia called Coyoacán, which we visited for a day and which took twenty minutes by taxi to reach. All the city back then was made up of colonias, each with its own history and personality.
San Angel
It still is, at least in its center. We stayed in the beautiful, tree-filled Colonia La Condesa, which is ten or fifteen minutes from the Centro Histórico. Around La Condesa are Zona Roma, Zona Rosa, the colonias of Polanco, Cuahtémoc and Chapultepec. A bit farther afield are San Angel and Coyoacán.
We spent all our time this trip in these colonias, except for the longer excursion to Xochimilco. All these places are easily accessible and filled with sites of history, art, culture and commerce. We saw a lot of things and met a lot of people, but not twenty million of them.
Mexico City: Getting Around
There was a time, some years ago, when Mexico City was a dangerous place. This was a bit after the time when New York City's crime rate was soaring, when people were warned not to visit -- and they didn't.
Between then and now, for both cities, things have changed. Although Mexico City's crime rate is up some in the last couple of years, most occurs inside groups, gangs and places we chose not to be a part of. Just as in New York, just as in Seattle, there are places one does not go if one wishes to be safe. I believe the best rule is Use Your Common Sense.
I still want to see other parts of the city, but I'll do that with a good experienced guide. In the meantime, our day trips and walks were self-guided, using the available books, maps, and transportation.
The Metrobuses are big, clean, articulated coaches that run in dedicated lanes on three separate lines through the city, pulling up to neat covered platforms every few minutes. You can buy a card at a machine on the platforms which you simply scan to open the turnstile.
Once through the turnstile, you have an interesting option: the first car of the two is especially for women, children, and persons over 60. No one seemed to mind when my two male companions joined me in that car, but then they are clean cut gringos who don't grope women. We did get into the second car once, and got back out at the next stop: it was closely packed, nearly all men, and I decided I much preferred the other.
Again, common sense rules: pickpocketing happens. I kept my bag in front of me with my arms across it on the buses and in other very crowded places. We rode those buses many times and I found them perfectly amenable.
I hate to say it, but I never got on the Metro, Mexico City's subway system, one of the largest and most used in the world. I hear it's fine -- we just didn't have a station nearby, and the bus was a block away, so that's what we used. The subway trains also have cars for women, children, and mayores.
Mexico City Taxis
There have been reports of people, sometimes tourists, being hijacked by rogue taxis and made to hand over the money they have with them or out of their ATM accounts. Knowing this, there is absolutely no reason to use any but regulated taxis.
Standing on nearly every street corner, one sees hoards of the marked red and gold taxis pass at a rate of ten or fifteen a minute. They are registered and have licenses on their windows. They usually have meters -- if one doesn't, it behooves you to ask the price of your trip, or get in the next one that does. Radio taxis are also said to be very safe, and can be called by any restaurant or hotel. In front of many hotels and in other places around the city, there are "sitios": places where taxis sit and wait. These, too, are considered perfectly safe. They are also more expensive than the red and gold ones, as are radio taxis.
A couple of the red & golds, with a Metrobus and platform behind.
On one of my first days in the city, I was pooped and ready to cab back to the apartment and wasn't seeing any vacant red and golds to flag. I did see a marked sitio at the foot of a wide staircase going up to a very nice hotel. I went in and approached the uniformed greeting-guard-guy and asked him about the taxis out front, which themselves were not obviously marked. He assured me that they were safe and official, and accompanied me back down the stairs and into one, even telling the driver where I was going. The trip cost about twice what a red and gold would have charged, but that's the cost of taking sitio and radio cabs.
By the way, whenever possible I always start conversations with taxi drivers. I've found them, throughout Mexico, to be helpful, interesting, interested and informative. I've made some good buddies in twenty minutes.
About walking: I think I walked a couple of hundred miles. As I've said earlier in my Mexico City reports, the only danger I ever felt was from insane drivers when crossing the streets. I always tried to cross with a group of people, figuring the odds were better.
Mexico City: What to Wear
I'm putting this section in because I had a devil of a time figuring out what to pack. I googled, I researched, I read message boards. Nada. So here's my take on the issue.
Mexico is a big city but it's really not dressy unless you're a banker. Or maybe a real estate agent going to a wedding.
Nearly every single woman I passed on the streets day or night, if under 50 years old, was wearing jeans. Now, I'm not talking Farmer Brown dungarees, here. Mostly they were tight, worn with boots, very high heels (in the evenings and daytime, too) or flats.
Women over 50 also wore jeans or slacks; occasionally, at bistros and restaurants in the afternoons and evenings, a mid-calf skirt with a great sweater or jacket. On weekends, especially Sundays, some women could be seen wearing skirts and dresses, going to family dinners, shopping, or coming from church.
When it was very warm (only a few days in July 2011), the very young women wore shorts or short skirts on weekends in the parks. I never saw shorts on a woman over 21. It may be different when the weather is at its hottest (April and May), but I wouldn't bet on it.
I wore a couple of pairs of nice capris on our walking tours and found them perfect for the daytime weather and not out of place. Which reminds me of the importance of really comfortable shoes. I didn't wear athletic sneakers -- they look so American Tourist to me -- but I had a great pair of suede boots, a pair of good looking Merrill canvas shoes, and a pair of sandals with good thick padded soles. And a pair of snazzy high heels for fancy nights, but those are optional and I have a shoe fetish.
Men wore jeans and slacks, sometimes shorts in the parks on the weekends, and long sleeved shirts unless it was warm, then short sleeves or polo shirts. The younger men often wore t-shirts and, in the higher-end colonias, were very fashionable.
Did I tell you it was cold? Almost every afternoon, between 4 and 6, the skies would darken, the wind begin to blow and the rain to pummel.
It often dropped twenty degrees in a couple of hours. Boots! Socks! Sweaters! A flannel-lined rain jacket that I thought I was nuts for packing! A foldable umbrella! A short sleeved flannel nightie! A sweatshirt for hanging around the apartment which had no heat.
But then, if you forget anything, there's always
Mexico City: Shopping
Or...
Lots of choices! (I swear, we didn't even notice those "no photos" signs until I downloaded the pictures onto my computer. I guess they think we'll steal the designs...)
Actually, I found a lot of small boutique clothing stores in the various colonias that had fun and fashionable clothes at amazingly low prices. Shoes, too. I did come back with a bit more than I left with...but really, the summer sales were on and I live in a hot climate where we wear summer clothes all year round! And the handmade fringed wool shawl I bought at the San Angel Saturday market (for under $20 USD) was because I was freezing to death.
My favorite browse-shopping was in the museum shops, though. I brought back postcards of many of my favorite pieces of art, four books, and a few gift items I managed to cram into my suitcase.
I also brought back cheese.
And a pair of short pink rubber boots. Don't even ask...
¿Que mas? What more?
The whole trip was intense. It reminded me how much I love travel, how important it is to get out there and learn. And see.
Oh, yeah...I almost forgot. The witch. Just one more quick story.
We'd been wandering and museuming all afternoon. It was a hot one. We were up by the Zócalo around 4 o'clock, walking past the Cathedral to check on the Turibuses, the double-deckers. Several men were sitting on the low wall, burning incense in burners surrounded by scatterings of herbs and flowers. A few people were being "cleansed", the men using portable snuffers to surround their clients with fragrant smoke, chanting cleansing words.
I glanced at them as we passed then, suddenly, linked eyes with a small, serious-looking woman sitting a bit apart, also with herbs smoking in a burner. We shared a smile.
Travis and I proceeded to the Turibus stop, where too many people were in line and sitting atop the buses looking hot. Rush hour was imminent. I told Travis I didn't want to do it today.
"What do you want to do?" he asked.
"I want to go visit that witch I just met," I replied.
He told me to get over there, and he'd be nearby watching, with his camera.
I walked over and sat on the wall beside her.
"¿Qué tienes?" I asked. (What do you have?)
"¿Qué quieres?" she replied. (What do you want?)
We grinned at each other. I spoke in my third-grade Spanish. "Not much," I said. "Things are going pretty well for me." I told her about a couple of things I felt were blocking my path, or at least my energy.
She nodded, and put her hands on my temples. She said some words in a strange language which turned out to be Nahuatl, the ancient language of México. Then she said, in Spanish, "It is not our feet that lead us, but our minds. Anything you can imagine you can make real. You can go forward easily, but never dwell on the past or on negative things. If you do, you give them power and make them real. Use the power of your mind to create whatever you want."
I totally got that.
We started to talk. Her name is Rafaela. She is a Guerrero Nahua who was widowed twenty-six years ago. She moved with her children to Mexico City to make a living with her talent, which, she says, she was born with. She wore a pink hat.
She gave me a necklace. I tried to put it on, but I couldn't get the screw thing to work. She tried. She couldn't either. I tried again and it attached. Later, I looked at it with my glasses on and noticed a piece of fish line hadn't been cut properly and was interfering with the closure, so I cut the piece off. It works fine. I know she would approve, as she is a practical witch. Now I wear the necklace as an ankle bracelet, wrapped twice.
She said time is like water. She said, if you let it flow and don't dam it, it will wash away all the old and bring in the new. We agreed that this was good. She said this takes patience, which we both had noticed is sometimes hard to come by, but such is life. We talked some more. We had a connection.
She told me she was turning 70 on August 8. She spoke some more Nahuatl for me, a complicated language of X's and TL's and sh-shes and glottals. Then she reached into a satchel and gave me a big piece of amethyst, which is my birthstone -- I hadn't told her that. We found we had much in common regarding the discoveries we'd made about life and the behavior of the universe.
She gave me a handful of blue corn kernels and a strange seed pod. She asked me if she could do anything more for me. I said, I don't know, what do you think? Should I have a cleansing? She said, "No, no, you don't need one! You're fine! I don't want to sell you something you don't need." And we laughed like little kids for a long time.
As we were beginning to say goodbye, she bent down and picked up another big seed of some kind. "Keep this," she said. "It will keep the bad energies away from your door." We both knew she was talking about a certain beaurocracy that's been plaguing me. We both hope it works.
I went back to see her just before leaving Mexico City. I wanted to bring her a flower for her birthday, but all the flower sellers were in another part of town for a saint's day celebration. So I bought her a smoothie instead, of mango and papaya and pineapple to remind her of the playa where I live. She showed me the vases she had bought for her birthday party flowers. She held me in her arms for a long time, and when we released each other, she was crying.
I love that she practices her ancient art right there, where the Nahua people lived ages before the Cathedral was built. I love her profound knowledge of the natural world and her understanding of natural magic. I love her strength. Rafaela is such a good witch.
I hope you've enjoyed these weeks of stories and photos from Ciudad de México. I've surely enjoyed sharing it all with you. Keep those comments and questions coming -- I love hearing from you.
Meanwhile, I send you best wishes from good witches.
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Hi Candice super really nice article I love Mexico City!!! and a I like you so much kisses and Hugs...
Memo
Posted by: Guillermo Hernandez | August 17, 2011 at 08:16 AM
Can't add much to all the great responses already here. it was a great adventure. thanks for taking us with you. I too loved the taxis, the dogs the dresses and especially the beautiful Rafaela.
Posted by: Sheri | August 14, 2011 at 05:02 PM
I have just completed reading your Mexico City journal in its entirety. I have said similar things to you before and at the risk of being repetitive, you are one very talented women! I loved the insight, the history, the intrigue, the shopping, the art, the witch, especially the witch, the taxis and taxi drivers, and every single photo, legally taken or not! I loved it all and really do feel as though I was there by your side, every step of the way. It was almost as though I could smell and taste the food and beverage, and hear the conversations and sounds of the city and its environs.
Your talent is so unique. It is the same talent found in the actor who wraps you up in the character because they become the character and they make you forget you are watching an actor. The same gift as the musician who has the ability to become one with their instrument, an extension of the essence of their soul, the same blessing bestowed upon the singer who tells the story by singing their song through living it and not just performing it. You tell the story allowing the reader to feel that they are actually seeing it all through your eyes, feeling it, every moment, every discovery, every encounter, every detail with your joy, delight, sense of humor, awe and unique energy. All of that my friend is a very rare gift and I thank you for sharing it with me and all who are fortunate enough to be invited to take part and travel with you.
What you create and how you impart it is so right on! So please, write on! And again, thank you!
Posted by: Diedre | August 13, 2011 at 02:40 PM
Kudos to the author of this post. What a wonderful description of Mexico City. This article is so in detail and reviews the city from almost every angle. Thanks for sharing this information with everyone. I also blog about Mexico, retirement in Mexico to be exact, on www.retireinnayarit.com. I hope you'll check it out. In the meantime, I will be following your blog! Best, Rick
Posted by: Rick | August 13, 2011 at 11:37 AM
I enjoyed your openess to the great things Mexico City has to offer ... and the fun photos, too. Thank you for your post and que viva México!!
Posted by: Jane Onstott | August 13, 2011 at 10:27 AM
Speechless...... this particular blog leaves me completely speechless. You made me feel as though I have crossed a line, entered a new acceptance.... I just love Rafaela. I truly believe we all meet a Rafaela at least once in our lifetime and to recognize her before you even met... amazing! AND THOSE DRESSES.. the ones with the entire mural on their skirts... VIVA Mexico!
Posted by: Gretchen | August 13, 2011 at 09:51 AM
Thanks for helping to correct the terrible impression so many people have of Mexico City. I've lived here for 10 years and love it!
Posted by: jim johnston | August 13, 2011 at 07:10 AM
Sandy, it was amazing to me to watch the dog training sessions in Parque México, a block from our apartment. I couldn't get enough of it. Every breed imaginable, purebred and mutt, learning to behave. The trainers were all young men and they knew their stuff, often working with a dozen or more dogs at a time. Then you'd see dogs being walked by their owners later, patient at street corners, heeling and coming at the tiniest command whether on or off leash. I like to see that--I think dogs love to have a job to do--and of course so much safer in a city with crazy traffic, many people and other dogs. There's also a big play area for the dogs featuring a pond where the retrievers (and others) swam and fetched and cooled off for hours. Very different approach to dog-rearing than we're used to up north.
Jeanne, the green bubble cars are pedicabs! Cute, huh?
Posted by: Candice | August 13, 2011 at 06:47 AM
This was by far your most interesting blog (to me). My favorite part was the sign that says "Snob," since we are the champions of finding good sinage here south of the border. I could not take a photo of my favorite on my ride back yesterday . . . because there are so many scary, machine-gun-outfitted guards at the toll plazas who may have misinterpreted my intentions with a photo . . . but high up over the cashier was a sign that was posted by the bank that collects the money for the tolls: it said BAN BRAS! Only we hippies would get it, but I chuckled and wished so that I could put it into our photo archive! We are home again. See you later on today. Is it safe to appear at Panchito's tonight? Last night looked way too children-infested!
Posted by: Judith | August 13, 2011 at 04:54 AM
Lovely adventure as always ! Loved the "witch".
It's clear to see that, unlike most in the Norte end of this hemisphere, the "art/skill" of properly training the family dog is still alive & well in the D.F. & extremely well displayed in that photo ! Thanks, Sandy ;-)
Posted by: Sandy Beach In Toronto | August 12, 2011 at 11:51 PM
Qué padre, mi amiga. And you know what I love about you? I remember when I told you about the opportunity to go and it took you all of about ten seconds to say, "Yes!!!" To the next one...
Posted by: Travis | August 12, 2011 at 07:02 PM
Love the post Candice!! Just beautiful! Rafaela sounds like a very wise woman. Someone you'll always remember.
Are those little green vehicles motorcycle taxis?
Oh - and nice looking dude! :) We need a photo of you all dressed up to match him! Must of been a big night!
Posted by: Jeanne | August 12, 2011 at 05:08 PM