For me, Talpa de Allende is a town of many charms. Nestled as it is high in a valley, surrounded by soft hills climbing to tall pine-furred mountains, its climate is unlike any Mexico I'd previously met. It is prone, some parts of the year, to a chill morning fog that melts in the warmth of the noontime sun.
Talpa's everyday nature is that of a ranch town. Horses are everywhere, clopping down cobbled streets, working in the fields, the conveyance of choice.
Talpa's aroma, besides eau de ranch, is a warm, sugary sweetness from the guava candy factories scattered about the town.
Talpa is famous for its rollos de guayaba. And for its chewing gum sculpture.
Okay, it's not exactly chewing gum. Chicle is the same stuff that chewing gum is made from, but here it is prepared for the purpose of sculpture, the sap harvested from trees, boiled with dyes, and used to make art.
Above guava candy, above chicle art, Talpa is most famous for being the home of Nuestra Señora de Rosario, the Virgin of Rosario.
She's a tiny thing, less than 18" tall, but she is mighty powerful in these parts. Many legends circulate as to her origins and miraculous feats. It is generally agreed that she was made sometime around 1600 of a cornstalk paste and was eventually placed upon the altar of the parish church.
After that, the tales vary somewhat. The following seems the most prevalent.
In 1644, a visiting church official decided that she and several other similar rustic saintly figures had become a bit too bedraggled for display, and ordered that they be removed and respectfully buried, as was tradition. On the morning of September 19, a young peasant girl came to help with the work of wrapping the old figures. She reached for the tiny statue of the Virgin, whereupon it began to glow as bright as the sun! Suddenly the statue was not only no-longer-bedraggled, but rather resplendent and in perfect condition. People fainted all over the church. Needless to say, they moved the little Virgin into a special spot and over time built a bigger church around her.
Another story is told about a bishop from Mascota who thought this miraculous statue really needed to be in his church instead, and used his authority to have her moved. The next morning, she was back in place on her Talpa altar, and several people swore there were tiny footprints all the way from Mascota to the Talpa plaza!
In any case, ever since the morning of September 19, 1644, the little Virgin has received quite a lot of attention. She is renowned for performing all kinds of miracles, especially healing people of illnesses and injuries. Five times a year, there are major festivals in her honor. Year round, pilgrims walk into Talpa from all over, from miles and miles away, on missions of thanks and prayer.
I was extremely fortunate to witness this beautiful procession a few years ago. This is different from the pilgrimages. These people are carrying one of the Virgin's several proxies, who circulate throughout the year blessing crops and animals, attending festivals and bestowing grace where needed. One can hear these processions coming from far back in the hills, as the walkers fire bottle rockets along the way on their journey to the Basílica.
In the Basílica, Nuestra Señora de Rosario stays on her altar except for a few days each year, when she is brought down to walk around town, and to be cleaned and dressed in new clothes.
Behind the Basílica is a wonderful museum with displays of stunning retablos, some quite old, thanking the Virgin for her works.
Next week, we'll see another side of Talpa when I take you to visit Raúl, a local rancher who is full of surprises!
Get plenty of sleep, as we have to get up really early for this adventure. See you next Friday!
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Regarding Who Are You?, my post of May 27, I am delighted that so many readers have communicated with me to let me know who you are! What a treat to hear from you. Thanks, and keep in touch!
Only you would drive from Seattle to San Poncho! What a CRAZY/FUN? trip! Would you do it again? Red surf board and all!
Did you get a bit of our summer when you were here in the NW? Remember our B&B here in Stayton, OR USA. We would love to host weary/nonweary travelers!
Heading to the Islands again in Oct.--getting close to heading your way-SOMEDAY! You have the best kept secret place in Mexico!!!! ENJOY!
We are hosting another wedding this August. Last year the bride rode in on her horse-quite enchanting!!!
Love your posts/blog!
Posted by: Patty Chalupsky | July 08, 2011 at 04:34 PM
I can almost smell the Museo de Chicle.
Posted by: Travis | June 12, 2011 at 09:39 AM
Candace, I love this post! The first part reminds me of our trip to San Sebastion. I've never heard of chicle sculptures or the Virgin of Rosario! Next trip, we obviously need to venture farther down that road. Can't wait for next Friday's post!
Posted by: Beck | June 11, 2011 at 07:12 AM
I love what these little miracles spawn in Mexico. Entire lives are changed by one other-worldly event. The tossing of rockets seems to accompany pretty well every occasion! who knows why!
And I never knew those resin statues were made from chicle. If these posts keep up, there is going to be an influx of tourists converging on little Talpa de Allende, this tourist will be in that crowd!
Posted by: Gretchen | June 10, 2011 at 08:02 AM