Tonalá-la-la!

Want to go shopping?

I did. I was in Ajijic, waiting for delivery of my new 2005 RAV4, which delivery was delayed due to an unexpected holiday having to do with the Virgin of Rosario.

I needed to get into Tonalá. I had hoped to take my own car and had arranged to meet a shopper there. I called him. His name is José Orozco. He spent years in the import/export business and is now a tour and shopping guide. I met him a couple of years ago at Quinta Don Jose, my favorite Tlaquepaque hotel. José said he'd drive and deliver me back to Ajijic. 

Coincidentally, Raúl, who is the main guy at the company that's moving my boxes from Seattle, offered to come to me in Ajijic to get all the paperwork signed, sealed, triplicated and delivered. So I bummed a ride up the highway with him and arrived in Tonalá on Wednesday late afternoon.

I'd done my research, of course, and had chosen Hotel Casa de las Palomas, a standard Mexican hotel just far enough off Tonalá's main drags as to (theoretically) not be as noisy as the two other popular shopping hotels.

The desk clerk was instantly welcoming and practiced his English on me as he showed me several rooms. He seemed to be urging me to take an inside room; that is, one without exterior windows, facing the center courtyard. But I chose a larger room with street noise over claustrophobia. Here's the view from my room:

Snazzy, huh? And they had complimentary toiletries. With mints.

The room was just fine, with the usual hard Mexican bed (which I rather like) and some space to spread out.

I made a personal pledge not to deteriorate any objects or stain any etc.'s, then quick washed my face with a corner of the hand towel (these places never have washcloths) and hurried out, as I knew I didn't have much time before the stores would close. First place I wanted to go was the place I bought the punched tin lamparas, as I needed mirrors and assorted junk, which they have. 

I can't for the life of me get a clear photo of this place, but you'll get the idea.

I bought a whole bunch of mirrors with the help of the owner's 8-year-old granddaughter who was fabulous. We had a ball.

I also bought six punched tin wall lamps for the kitchen and some of his other tin doodads to decorate the backs of the old doors in the house. I finished just before closing time and went to eat at Rincon del Sol, which was recommended by the guy at the hotel and was only two and a half long blocks away.

I hadn't taken time to eat all day and was famished. I ordered the molcajete which would have been too much even if a lovely woman from Manzanillo whom I'd glimpsed at the hotel had not brought half her order of guacamole to me.

Can you say, "too much food"? Can you say, "Ow, my stomach hurts"? I can. It was delicious and my stomach hurt only because I ate all of it.

Next morning, I met José in the hotel lobby and we started our spree. First place he took me was to look for a big table top for the dining room, which is on the outdoor covered veranda of the casa, as you must know by now. I saw several that I liked and they offered to make one for me to size from parota wood, which is one of the few woods that works outside in the jungle-and-sea environment of San Pancho.

I also ordered a four foot round table for the kitchen that will look something like this one which was too small.

I told José I was hoping to find comfortable pine chairs, which I plan to paint to protect them from the climate. I can't tell you how many Mexican pine chairs I've tried, and they all hurt. José knew just the place.

I chose six each of two different designs. We wouldn't want things to get boring, would we? And they're made with curved seats and backs, so actual people can sit in them!

Then the owner (who's a nice guy and a Jim Morrison fan) brought me a corner of a roll of brown paper and I sketched a little desk that he'll make for the kitchen.

 

 

 

 

Next was glassware, as Tonalá is also a glass blowing town and makes all those glasses you see everywhere you go.

I knew exactly what I wanted, which is not always a good idea when shopping, but I was sure I'd find it. I didn't find it at this place, but the workers invited me into their workshop to take photos, anyway.

Next, we went to a workshop that actually had decent prices on well-made equipale, so I ordered a whole bunch of it to put all over the place.

This worker is applying carnauba wax to the leather to protect it from the climate.

José has a big truck, by the way, in case you were wondering. Or access to one, with a driver he's used for many years. At the time we bought the equipale, I was only going to fill up half a truck, as he was taking down some furniture for another client in a couple of weeks.

Then, he got a phone call which made him wonder whether the other client's stuff will really be ready by then. Personally, I must have my stuff by early November as (if you recall, and it's now confirmed) Queenie is arriving in mid-November along with esposo and hijo.

So now I'm paying for a whole truck? Well, okay. How about some pots?

I'm sure you know the feeling: at this point my mind just totally shut down. I wanted all of them.

I wandered around like a zombie.

Through a terra cotta haze, I was able to indicate to José that I was going to go shopping later in my pictures, and would send him photos of the ones I wanted. And how many. And what color. 

You have time to vote on your favorites if you hurry.

José kindly shepherded me out of there and into the car, and delivered me intact to the hotel. It was 5:30. I grabbed something non-caffeinated to drink at the little corner grocery store across the street, washed my face with a fresh towel corner, and headed out. Because Thursday in Tonalá is market day (Sunday, too) and I just wanted to watch them fold it up.

Strangely enough, as my camera and I drifted down a back street...

...I happened to look up and notice a glassware store. I went in, and there were the everyday all-occasion glasses I'd been looking for.

So I bought enough for every day and a goodly number of occasions. 

They packed it carefully and delivered it to the hotel, of course.

I know there are people who think it gauche to talk about prices, so I'll keep it to three words: cheap, cheap, cheap! All of it! You wouldn't believe it compared to Puerto Vallarta, not to mention the U.S.A. (Okay, okay...that's more than three words. I'll stop.)

By the way, I will certainly return to Hotel Casa de las Palomas. I'm sure it is quieter than the hotels closer to the market streets, and the cars and kids skateboarding below my window were pretty much done by eleven at night. Anyway, earplugs are always a good idea when traveling in Mexican towns. The staff was kind and cordial and took care of my deliveries gladly. 

The next morning José picked me up again. We loaded his car with mirrors and glassware and a few little antique-ish things, then went and paid for the table top. He let me find the woman with a booth on Tonalá's main avenue who sells mosquito netting dyed these beautiful dusky colors which have intrigued me since I first saw them a couple-three years ago. Then he drove me back to Ajijic.

Later that day, I picked up my new used car. The following day, car packed to the brim, I drove the five and a half hours to San Pancho with Travis riding shotgun. Easy as pie, the RAV4 and I crossed the river where the bridge wasn't and climbed the hill to Casa Luz de Luna.

Probably I'll be getting a lot of stuff in a few weeks. I'd better get ready for it.

                                                    <    <    <                                                  

The Excellent José Orozco, Tour and Shopping Guide

 

Next week: I don't suppose you'd like to see how the casa is coming along?

 

Comments

[Dave Stewart]

Loved reading about Tonala and the pictures from the 'back of the shop' were wonderful! I love to see how things are made...thinking maybe someday I could make those too...

You are breaking ground for me as I begin to build the house in Bucerias. At some point, I'll also make this trip to Tonala, not soon enough in my book, however! Thanks for sharing one more part of your jouney. Dave....

[Dee]

Candice, you should have bought a used Ford truck instead of the RAV4! You could have hauled home a huge load of pots piled three high in the back!

What a great shopping trip! So glad you are posting all the pictures for us. Sometimes I think I want to see Tonala, but knowing I could never haul home all the stuff I would want by airplane, I think I'm better off not crying my eyes out over what I can't have!

Can't wait to see how things are progressing back at the casa!

[Jeanne]

Fun, fun fun!!! Just reading your post made me exhausted. You did so much shopping in such a short period of time! And found some beautiful things!

I, like Gretchen, love the pot with the iguana. I’d buy the tall vase with the iguana, and the beige one to the left of it in the photo. Maybe 2 of each if you needed them. I absolutely love the brown chimenea with the iguana and beige top – definitely buy AT LEAST one of those. I actually like all of them – maybe would have to buy one of all but my first choice would be the iguana one. I love the pots that are natural colored (to the left of the yellow ones) – they would look gorgeous with lush plants in them.

And I would love to have the pink/fuschia colored fairy dress for Halloween – if you look closely you’ll see that it has wings. It’s beautiful.

I can’t wait to see the progress on the house!

[Candice]

You put those back in the box right now, Trenton!!

[Trenton]

Ummmm.....just checking. Are you saying the "everyday" glassware you left in Tracy's room is intended for San Pancho?

OOPS!!!

[Gretchen Goodliffe]

Well, this sure beats a day at the local mall..... Holy Bat Wings, how I would have loved to have trailed along behind you. Love the colour of the "everyday" glasses, REALLY love the table you have chosen, only bigger, and each of those chairs gets lovingly constructed, so nice to see, how could you not want them. You have done your homework with adaptable wood and ocean breezes... parota is very warm looking.
The pots.. well one of my choices would be the iguana-graced one, and mostly all the rest!... but I like the ones that have droopy handles on the side, they look the most Mexican to me.
I am worn out just imagining your shopping excursion in Tonala.. whew!
PS: how did you actually cross the non-bridged river?

[Michelle Holguin]

I am SO insanely jealous of you and hope to meet you someday so I can get over it :-)
We bought a half-built house in Bucerias in 2007 and still haven't finished it.
Two years ago we visited San Pancho for the first time and fell instantly in love. Now we drive the Hwy from Bucerias to San Pancho just to hang out on the beach and have tacos when we are there. I adore your casa and every tiny detail that you have put into it. You are an inspiration.